ENTS, I sent this post to Bob a few days ago. I wanted to repost it here as part of the documentation of the Project concept.
Bob,
Since your phone call the other day I have been thinking about your proposal to do a book about the Blue Ridge Parkway. I have been reading materials on the internet about the parkway and rereading accounts of visits to the area. In particular I have reread the posts you made about the Parkway on your trip to and from the Kentucky conference in 2007. It is clear from your writing that you are intimately familiar with at least the southern portion of the parkway and have a fondness for this area. I think the project s eminently doable. You are describing special forests from every high peak in the southern part of the parkway in a conversational narrative. I am sure you combine descriptions of particular sites along the parkway made by other people into a cohesive whole. Some details would need to be worked out, but I would say full steam ahead for the concept. We should contact the National Park Service about working on the book. I have some specific comments.
I would really like to see the Skyline Driver and Shenandoah National Park included as part of the project. Perhaps this section overall is not as spectacular as the southern parkway in terms of relief, but its inclusion is worthwhile for several reasons. First the Skyline drive is contiguous with the Blue Ridge Parkway. It follows the same ridgeline, the geology is similar, the history of land use is similar, and the forests are comparable. People coming from the north typically will travel down the Skyline drive to the Blue Ridge Parkway and treat them as a single highway. An advantage of including the Skyline Drive is the fact that as part of Shenandoah National Park the area is better documented than is the area along the parkway. There are multiple reports dealing with the geology, the forests and the history of the park, while the materials relating to the parkway proper are much more limited. If the book is organized from north to south, this will along a much more detailed background to be prepared for the book than would be possible for just the parkway section.
This area of the road perhaps is not as spectacular as the southern parkway, but it does contain several outstanding examples of old growth and gnarled forests. Places like Old Rag are topographically prominent in the sense of the Peakbagger’s criteria. The height from the top to the base is several thousand feet and is very steep. In addition it has gnarled, old forests, ad some unique geology.
Forests of Shenandoah National Park
Today Shenandoah NP is greater than 95% forested. Over half of the land is dominated by either chestnut or red oak forests situated on the ridge tops and upper slopes. Mid-slope positions support areas of mixed hardwood forests that include maple (Acer spp.), birch (Betula spp.), ash (Fraxinus spp.), and basswood (Tilia americana) trees. Yellow poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) forests are found on the lower slopes and along streams. Approximately 20% or 267 of the vascular plant species documented in the Park are trees or shrubs. These species are most noticeable when their leaves change color in the Fall, but can be appreciated all year long. Early spring finds serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) blooming, the white blossoms visible for long distances through the leafless forest. Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia) is one of the most common understory shrubs within the Park, and it is well known for its abundant pink blooms in June.
There are some older documents that would be worthwhile trying to locate.
http://www.nps.gov/shen/historyculture/abused_landscape.htm
Beginning in 1934 the ECW (CCC) program hired an Assistant Forester, R. B. Moore, to assess the condition of the proposed park area. Over the next several years, using the labor of CCC enrollees, Moore mapped the forest or vegetative cover on 172,828 acres of the proposed park. Dividing the land into watersheds, Moore defined 16 forest cover 6 types and five age classes.7 Known forest fires were also mapped. The data were published on May 29, 1937 as "Forest Type Map Write-Up by Watersheds, Shenandoah National Park."
In the detailed descriptions of the watersheds, Moore discussed the existing vegetative associations, soil types and conditions, reproduction of species, fire hazard potential, insect and fungal pests, and past history. Although he recognized that much of the park had been logged in the past, he identified eleven watersheds, or parts of watersheds, that retained significant forest communities with no evidence of previous logging activity: Hogwallow Flats, Hogback (south side), Beahms Gap (south and east sides), Pass Run to Shaver Hollow (upper slopes), the Robinson River watershed, Staunton River, Big Run, Loft Mountain (east side), Hangman Run, Devils Ditch and the Upper Conway River, and the lower slopes of Cedar Mountain. Although these areas indicated no evidence of former logging, many did show the effects of the wildfires that swept across the mountain in 1930, 1931, and 1932, possibly aggravated by the worst drought in Virginia history.
note: Although Moore stated that there was no evidence of former logging in the Staunton River watershed, basing his field determination on the evidence of stumps, it is known that narrow gauge railroad track was laid up the watershed for logging. Perhaps the loggers took downed trees and/or dead chestnuts which would not have left significant evidence of removal.
To summarize Moore (1937) identified these areas as old growth forest:
1. Hogwallow Flats
2. Hogback (south side),
3. Beahms Gap (south and east sides),
4. Pass Run to Shaver Hollow (upper slopes)
5. Robinson River watershed,
6. Staunton River,
7. Big Run,
8. Loft Mountain (east side),
9. Hangman Run,
10. Devils Ditch
11. Upper Conway River,
12. lower slopes of Cedar Mountain.
a. Moore, R. B. (1937). "Forest Type Map Write-Up by Watersheds, Shenandoah National Park."
b. Berg, L.Y. and R.B. Moore. (1941). Forest cover types of Shenandoah National Park, Virginia. July 1941. USDI-NPS, Region One.
Although the forests of the Northern Blue Ridge lack the floral diversity that is characteristic of the Southern Blue Ridge forest, the climate, topography, and geology gives rise to an interesting flora, including areas where some typically northern species reach their southern limit (Braun 1950; Mazzeo 1966b; Ludwig et al. 1993). For example, balsam fir, speckled alder (Alnus incana ssp. rugosa), bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), Bebb's sedge (Carex bebbii), and bunchberry (Cornus canadensis) occur at or near their southern or southeastern range limit in SHEN (NPS 1998). In addition, gray birch (Betula populifolia), leathery grape-fern (Botrychium multifidum), hemlock parsley (Conioselinum chinense), highland rush (Juncus trifidus), mountain sandwort (Minuartia groenlandica), three-toothed cinquefoil (Sibbaldiopsis tridentata), white mandarin (Streptopus amplexifolius), and narrow false oats (Trisetum spicatum) are long-range boreal disjuncts occurring in isolated, high-elevation stations in SHEN. By contrast, catawba rhododendron (Rhododendron catawbiense) reaches its northern limit in the park (NPS 1998).
In A NATURAL RESOURCE ASSESSMENT FOR SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK - Technical Report NPS/NER/NRTR—2006/071 by Carolyn G. Mahan, December 2006 http://www.nps.gov/nero/science/FINAL/SHEN_Assess/SHEN_Assess.htm
pdf2.pdf Old Growth -Current Status and Significance: Due to past land-use history, the old-growth (>200 years old) stands that still persist in SHEN are few and small in size. Winstead (1995) described 13 areas in SHEN that may be classified as old-growth stands and 12 stands that may be old-growth or contain individual old-growth trees. Limberlost is perhaps the most famous and most frequently visited old-growth area in SHEN. Unfortunately, most of the old-growth trees in Limberlost died as a result of hemlock woolly adelgid infestation, and most standing dead hemlocks along the trail were removed in 2003. Other stands of old-growth forest are located along the Upper Staunton River and at the headwaters of Pocosin Run (Winstead 1995). The Upper Staunton River site was dominated by hemlocks and has also been decimated by the hemlock woolly adelgid. The Pocosin Run site is unique in that it is dominated by red oak and chestnut oak, rather than the more typical eastern hemlock and tuliptree overstory. Braun (1950) and Fievet et al. (2003) described White Oak Canyon as containing an extensive area of undisturbed forest at the time of park establishment. However, Winstead (1995) noted that no large stands of virgin timber had been identified in the canyon, although large oaks and hemlocks are found scattered along the White Oak Canyon Trail.
a. Winstead, R. 1995. Old-growth report: Shenandoah National Park. Working document. Shenandoah National Park. Luray, VA.
It would be worthwhile to try and obtain a copy of this Winstead (1995) document. It was a working document in 1995, but I have not found any place where it has been incorporated into any more recent reports.
Although Winstead (1995) documented many individual old-growth trees and stands in the park, he also identified several areas that still need to be visited to confirm the presence of old-growth trees. In addition, the exact age of many of the stands and individual trees is unknown because tree coring is not complete. Most investigation of potential old-growth sites in the park has been driven by the discovery of large trees. Other studies, however, have demonstrated that, on xeric sites, chestnut oaks of pedestrian size (< 40 cm dbh) may be 200–300 years old and that a number of xeric oak stands in the Central Appalachians have never been logged because of the poor growth form of their trees (Fleming and Moorhead 2000).
a. Fleming, G. P., and W. H. Moorhead. 2000. Plant communities and ecological land units of the Peters Mountain area, James River Ranger District, George Washington and Jefferson National Forests, Virginia. Natural Heritage Technical Report 00-07. Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation, Division of Natural Heritage. Richmond. 195 pp.
Certainly this would be another worthwhile document to obtain. It would be a second confirmation of the presence of the unidentified old growth oak systems we have both talked about along the ridgetops. Perhaps it would specifically identify other locations or provide additional information that would be helpful in this project.
There are other forested types that can be mentioned if there is access for the public along trails that would not adversely impact the resource:
Barrens, Boulderfields, and Exposed Rock Vegetation Types
Current Status and Significance: Due to the mountainous terrain at SHEN there are distinctive vegetation associations correlated with exposed and/or loose rock, infertile, minimal soils, and low moisture gradients. The plant species that are found on these locations vary depending on elevation, substrate type, soil type, aspect, and degree of exposure, but tend to occur as stunted forests, shrublands, or herbaceous vegetation, and are associated with diverse lichens and high (>50%) surface rock cover. Some examples of these associations present at SHEN include the Central Appalachian High-Elevation Boulderfield Forest, the High-Elevation Outcrop Barren, the High-Elevation Heath Barren, the Central Appalachian Basic Boulderfield Forest, and the globally rare and endemic High-Elevation Greenstone Barren (Young et al. 2005).
The High-Elevation Greenstone Barren vegetation association is endemic to SHEN and is found mostly above 1,000 m (3,281 ft) on exposed metabasalt (greenstone) cliffs and ledges. This vegetation type is listed as a G1 community (critically imperiled globally) by NatureServe and the Natural Heritage network. On lower slopes where massive exposures of Catoctin metabasalt (greenstone) occur at low elevations, eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) and white ash are the characteristic trees associated with the Central Appalachian Circumneutral Barren (Massey 1968; Young et al. 2005). This vegetation association is also visible just outside park boundaries on steep or westerly facing slopes.
Pitch pine and table mountain pine exist as a climax community type on xeric sites along ridge lines throughout the Appalachians. These pines can persist as the dominant tree for several decades; however, fire is necessary for regeneration and recruitment at these sites. Periodic, high-intensity fires will deter hardwood species such as red oak species from invading, while encouraging germination of pine seeds. Futhermore, pine stands may regenerate from adjacent seed sources after fire, although the possibility of post-fire invasion of hardwoods, and subsequent replacement of pine, needs to be considered. Due to the severe conditions at these sites, nonnative plant competition is minimal.
In addition to these are isolated forests containing balsam fir and its associations. I believe there is a hiking trail along the parkway leading to a balsam fir forest.
There are open areas and fields – most notably Big meadows in Shenandoah National Park. These could be mentioned in passing as part of the north to south descriptions:
Big Meadows is a 53.6-ha (134 -ac), ridge-top meadow located at an elevation of 1,067 m (3,500 ft) along Skyline Drive in SHEN. Rare plant populations, historic settlement sites, and the open character of the landscape impart natural and cultural values to the meadow. As the only large non-forested area in the park, the meadow is also a haven for wildlife and plants that need open habitat. Big Meadows probably persisted in its open state for perhaps the past 10,000 years (Wilhelm 1969 [who also states that it was once 405 ha {1,000 ac} in size.] Lambert 1989; Moore 2003). Big Meadows is only 0.06% of the size of the entire park, but it supports populations of 18% of the state-listed rare plant species in the park. Although not all of Big Meadows is classified as a wetland, the rare Blue Ridge Mafic Fen alliance is located in the lower, groundwater-saturated parts of the meadow on both sides of Skyline Drive. The Mafic Fen contains eight plant species of special concern, including several sedges (Heffernan 1999).
These wet areas ad fens are prone to damage from visitation, so unless there is a developed trail or facilities there allowing visitation without damage, there locations should not be included.
Some other references:
a. Young, J. A., G. Fleming, P. Townsend, and J. Foster. 2005. Vegetation of Shenandoah National Park in relation to environmental gradients. Draft final report. U.S. Geological Survey, Leetown Science Center. Kearneysville, WV.
b. Massey, A. B. 1968. Notes relative to plant ecology in Virginia. Castanea 33:161–162.
c. Braun, E. L. 1950. Deciduous forests of eastern North America. The Blakiston Co. Philadelphia, PA.
Some specifics on the book concept:
1. In documenting the old growth and special forests, all of the known forests should be included, but an emphasis should be placed on those that are accessible by the general public via hiking trails.
2. There should be a section on low-impact hiking
3. I would like t see, and would be willing to write a short chapter or section on the Physiography and geology of the park ad parkway as the nature of the forests are directly related to the physiographic setting and geology of their location
4. There should be a section or short chapter on the human cultural history of the park ad parkway.
5. There should be a section or short chapter on the history of the park ad parkway itself, i.e. the conceptualization, planning, and construction of the roadway.
6. There should be a short guide to the typical flowering times of various shrubs and for fall foliage. If this book is directed at the general public, this is information they would want to find in the book.
7. There should be a brief overview of the wildlife and birdlife found in the park and along the parkway.
Edward Frank
Western Pennsylvania